THE GREAT DIVIDE
We had a very restorative stay in Whitefish, no rest day off the bike-but a perfect little spot to enjoy the scenery. We stayed at a lodge that is a cyclist's best friend on the road, The Good Medicine Lodge. GOOD MEDICINE INDEED! Woody and Betsy run it in fine style and treated us to a hot tub, warm cookies, free use of the internet, a laundry facility and a hearty breakfast. Plus the warmest hospitality this side of Texas. Our dinner out (in the rain, of course) with Barb and her husband Doug was a balm for the soul. They are upbeat, interesting, kind and loving---plus informative about Glacier National Park. It was so nice to be off the bikes, and reminiscing about our 30+ year friendship.
When we took a course in long distance touring from Adventure Cycling out on Whidbey Island last summer, the tour leader (a veteran of two cross country trips) told us that the day would come when we would be sitting in a laundramat in some small town wearing nothing but our rain jacket and pants and be washing clothes and not even notice our attire. I thought, "PREPOSTEROUS!". And yet, there I was in Whitefish---sitting in the loveliest little cafe, Loula's, waiting for a grilled portobello sandwich and wearing NOTHING but my rain pants and rain jacket while my clothes washed. I realized this when I started to take off my jacket. Kami then realized that not only was she in the same predicament, but the side vents under her arms were unzipped TOO!
The next day we headed up to Glacier, with the road to the pass still closed. We camped at Avalanche, and learned that the pass opened at noon. We crossed our fingers and had grilled cheese sandwiches and tomato soup for supper while feeling the steady rain turn to hail. It was unbelievable. The grizzly warnings increased dramatically---there were steel lockers the size of coffins to lock up ALL food, toiletries, water and anything with an odor. That would be ME, but I didn't think I could breathe in there! We saw a wolf and fox, lots of elk and deer and small animals, and David and Carmyn saw a black bear.
Yesterday, Tuesday, we headed out after sunrise to begin the climb up the GOING TO THE SUN ROAD, which goes to the peak at Logan Pass, and then crosses the CONTINENTAL DIVIDE. It is a steep, narrow road with sheer dropoffs and crumbly surfaces---no shoulders and no barriers in most places---along with two tunnels, numerous rocky overhangs lots of curves and a relentless grade. I would say without hesitation that it was the most beautiful ride I've ever done, and it was also the most grueling. We hit small areas of road construction twice, and the workmen cheered me on---I kept my game face on and kept cranking, but it was hard to keep it going. When we got closer to the top, the air was extremely thin, and there were snowbanks of about 6 feet on the side of the road. Glacier, indeed! When we got to the top, there were a couple of Texans standing nearby who took our photo. No one was there to take pictures while I was eating my Snickers bar and drinking my diet coke. I met a lot of people yesterday who were curious about the ride. Some Canadians who said we were "heroic" and a German who thinks Jan Ullrich will win the Tour this year.I disagreed and made my case for Lance.
The descent took us to Rising Sun campground and a visit from the ranger who told us that a black bear was IN the campground yesterday, and a grizzly had been by recently, was tagged and was now a half mile away. If ever there was a night for a fifty foot rope, it was last night---but I still don't know what you would do with it. We locked up all our food, and I went without my Tiger Balm for the second night in a row.
I'm loving the huckleberry ice cream that is currently available here, and the riding today into Cut Bank MT was outstanding---it is mostly flat, with some very minor downhills---but the tailwind was fierce. We stopped at CAMP DISAPPOINTMENT and had our sandwiches in the ditch beneath the historical marker which announced the place where Lewis and Clark got some bummer news on their summer vacation. Although the mountains look a lot farther away now, you can still see them so clearly in the background, and they are still majestic and beautiful in their mightiness. I've looked at them countless times today, and wondered how I ever got over them on a bicycle.
Tomorrow we head out fully loaded we'll be traveling the "HI LINE" as they say in Montana, a route on HWY 2 that cuts across the state and parallels the railroad--- David and Carmyn will split off on Friday and head to Yellowstone. I can't think about them leaving, they have been such good companions and faithful supporters.
When we took a course in long distance touring from Adventure Cycling out on Whidbey Island last summer, the tour leader (a veteran of two cross country trips) told us that the day would come when we would be sitting in a laundramat in some small town wearing nothing but our rain jacket and pants and be washing clothes and not even notice our attire. I thought, "PREPOSTEROUS!". And yet, there I was in Whitefish---sitting in the loveliest little cafe, Loula's, waiting for a grilled portobello sandwich and wearing NOTHING but my rain pants and rain jacket while my clothes washed. I realized this when I started to take off my jacket. Kami then realized that not only was she in the same predicament, but the side vents under her arms were unzipped TOO!
The next day we headed up to Glacier, with the road to the pass still closed. We camped at Avalanche, and learned that the pass opened at noon. We crossed our fingers and had grilled cheese sandwiches and tomato soup for supper while feeling the steady rain turn to hail. It was unbelievable. The grizzly warnings increased dramatically---there were steel lockers the size of coffins to lock up ALL food, toiletries, water and anything with an odor. That would be ME, but I didn't think I could breathe in there! We saw a wolf and fox, lots of elk and deer and small animals, and David and Carmyn saw a black bear.
Yesterday, Tuesday, we headed out after sunrise to begin the climb up the GOING TO THE SUN ROAD, which goes to the peak at Logan Pass, and then crosses the CONTINENTAL DIVIDE. It is a steep, narrow road with sheer dropoffs and crumbly surfaces---no shoulders and no barriers in most places---along with two tunnels, numerous rocky overhangs lots of curves and a relentless grade. I would say without hesitation that it was the most beautiful ride I've ever done, and it was also the most grueling. We hit small areas of road construction twice, and the workmen cheered me on---I kept my game face on and kept cranking, but it was hard to keep it going. When we got closer to the top, the air was extremely thin, and there were snowbanks of about 6 feet on the side of the road. Glacier, indeed! When we got to the top, there were a couple of Texans standing nearby who took our photo. No one was there to take pictures while I was eating my Snickers bar and drinking my diet coke. I met a lot of people yesterday who were curious about the ride. Some Canadians who said we were "heroic" and a German who thinks Jan Ullrich will win the Tour this year.I disagreed and made my case for Lance.
The descent took us to Rising Sun campground and a visit from the ranger who told us that a black bear was IN the campground yesterday, and a grizzly had been by recently, was tagged and was now a half mile away. If ever there was a night for a fifty foot rope, it was last night---but I still don't know what you would do with it. We locked up all our food, and I went without my Tiger Balm for the second night in a row.
I'm loving the huckleberry ice cream that is currently available here, and the riding today into Cut Bank MT was outstanding---it is mostly flat, with some very minor downhills---but the tailwind was fierce. We stopped at CAMP DISAPPOINTMENT and had our sandwiches in the ditch beneath the historical marker which announced the place where Lewis and Clark got some bummer news on their summer vacation. Although the mountains look a lot farther away now, you can still see them so clearly in the background, and they are still majestic and beautiful in their mightiness. I've looked at them countless times today, and wondered how I ever got over them on a bicycle.
Tomorrow we head out fully loaded we'll be traveling the "HI LINE" as they say in Montana, a route on HWY 2 that cuts across the state and parallels the railroad--- David and Carmyn will split off on Friday and head to Yellowstone. I can't think about them leaving, they have been such good companions and faithful supporters.
posted by Laurel @ 3:56 PM
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