ALL SERVICES

The maps we are using to get across country are pretty nifty. They are published by ADVENTURE CYCLING, and for the entire Northern Tier Route, with some adjustments and options, I think it takes about 15 maps. We've finished the first two, and are 2/3 of the way through the third set. Each map is divided into little panel sections, with the route highlighted and a narrative to explain the turns. The reverse side of the map has a section about each town, a chart about the climate, and an informative piece about the local geography and history of the area. At first, it also had elevation charts to show what the climbs would be like. The part I like best, though, is the way the maps use graphics to let the user know what to expect along the route. Each town has the population noted, and then there are symbols to represent the available amenities. For example, a knife and a fork symbol means you can get something to eat in the town. A grocery cart means there's a store, there's a little envelope for towns with post offices, and a wrench for towns with a bike shop. A bed means a motel, a tent means camping. A big bold star means "ALL SERVICES", like *this* town has GOT IT ALL! If I were making a map just for my own use, I would throw in some more symbols---like a little book for the towns with libraries (like Glasgow, where I am now). A movie camera would mean there's a theater. For the first 20 days of this journey, I scoured every town we stayed in, then EVERY town we rode through for the local movies. For 20 days, *if* I saw a theater, inevitably they were showing MADAGASCAR. It became a joke with David, Carmyn, Kami and I. At first, I wouldn't even consider going to see it, then it became more and more attractive as I realized it was going to be the only option. No one would go with me though, even for the popcorn! On the 21st day, I think, I was in a little town called RUDYARD (the town sign says, HOME OF 596 NICE PEOPLE AND ONE OLD SORE HEAD), having a soda pop when I noticed the downtown HI LINE theater and strolled over to see what was playing. They were playing HITCH HIKER'S GUIDE. Right next to that was a COMING SOON poster: MADAGASCAR!!! When we got to Havre, they were showing MADAGASCAR, too, but they have a 4-plex, and we went out to see CINDERELLA MAN. The other symbol I would like to see is a shower head, indicating a hot shower is available in the town. While camping with David, we often found ourselves in the US Forest Service domain with no showers and no flush toilets. David always offered to "heat some water and put it in the yellow pail" at the end of the day, particularly on the days we crossed mountains. Finally I said, "What am I supposed to do with that pail of hot water?" and Carmyn, a USFS camping veteran said, "You pick your 3 most important parts and go wash them". I considered this for quite some time, and after some narrowing down, I still had 7 most important parts. That's counting my entire face as one important part. So, on MY maps, the town that would get the ALL SERVICES STAR would have a book, a shower, a movie camera, an envelope, a knife and a fork and a place to rest my head, indoors or out.

Our ride today was long, into the wind and featured the largest and most aggressive mosquitoes I've ever encountered. They told me last night in Malta to stock up on the bug dope and get ready for them, but I still didn't realize what we would encounter. It was wild! Tomorrow we'll have a shorter day into Wolfe Point, an ALL SERVICES town.